Regular readers of these pages will know that, for various reasons, I cannot travel to the opera and concert performances that I would love to attend. I must admit to gnawing envy for those White Shirts and others who visit far flung places and lap up delicious operatic goodies. Luckily for me, and many in my situation, these big hearted people generously record and share their thoughts, photos and infectious excitement for others to drink up with vicarious pleasure.
So can you image my sheer delight when I heard that I would be travelling to several European cities (see photo below) and I will be going as soon as April this year! First delirious thought … Kasarova will be back from the South American tour so let’s see what I might be able to hear.
This Danube river cruise looks fabulous – transport and hotel all in one and lots of interesting places to visit (very briefly) but the itinerary is not flexible unless you can make a mad dash somewhere and not miss the boat! The only possibility is to extend the trip at either end but, alas, my April schedule does not allow that.
So – this is the reality …
14 April - Munich – the day after Harteros in Otello
14/15 April -Passau
16 April – Linz and Salzburg – 3 days before Werther (unexciting cast)
17 April – Melk and Durnstein – Kasarova is performing in Mahler Symphony 2 in the Heidelburg Spring Festival … 385 miles away. Aaaaaghhh! Woe is me! I expect you can hear the weeping, wailing and gnashing of teeth.
18 April – Vienna – Onegin with Netrebko - not tempted. A Mozart concert is included in the trip.
19 April – Bratislava- Onegin with Slovak cast – not tempted
20 April – Budapest - Aida with Hungarian cast – not tempted
Don’t get me wrong, I am delighted to be going on this wonderful surprise trip and I’m sure I will love every minute but even though I have been given the moon wouldn’t it be wonderful to have the stars as well?
I reckon by not going to the operas which I don’t find appealing I will save some money for something I really want to hear … sometime. I will get free time in each city so if anyone out there has any ideas as to what I really must not miss on the itinerary above please tell me – friendly suggestions are better than guidebooks after all. Take it as read that the opera houses, even without the performances, will be high on the agenda!
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I’ve been cheering myself up with a favourite White Shirt image - against doctor’s orders!
HAVE A WONDERFUL WHITE SHIRT WEEKEND!
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Hurrah ! Sounds like a wonderful trip ! You must keep your fans posted!
As for that WS image – not what the doctor ordered at all – but will look at it some more – just to be sure you understand ..
Really !!!! 😷😈🎯
darn schedules… but otherwise, that cruise route is nothing short of decadent and no matter where you step ashore, it’s yummy, yummy, yummy! The Danube must have some influence on local food karma.
Anything in particular I should try? … already drooling over the thought of Viennese coffee houses!
in Vienna, basically everything
Somewhat touristy, but still yummy: I have very good memories of veal schnitzel at Figlmüller with potato salad. Also, basically, EVERY pastry just about ANYWHERE (a friend who lives their swears by the Cafe Central). For the artsy literature feel, a Mélange at Cafe Griensteidl, opposite the Hofburg. If it’s spring, there’s lilac out front the Burg and it’s SO pretty. A walk through the museum quarter, definitely, and I’d absolutely check out the Theater an der Wien, even if just for the building (usually, really interesting regie productions, lots of Early Music specialsts) next to the Naschmarkt. And the wine store around the corner.
Hungary – if it’s Budapest, a downtown stroll, a thermal bath visit… and again, basically any food. Artistically, things are very difficult (let’s be frank: it’s bad, really bad) due to the current political situation.
I can feel the kilos piling on already, but what the hell, I will experience everything possible. Apparently the on-board chefs cook local specialities too.
if ever extra kilos were worth it, this is it!
damn, I envy your tastebuds already.
wow, travel down the Danube (Donau as my german friend insists)! i guess if the WS doesn’t quite align, you can roam and explore other things as Anik suggests? (though i must say u miss Malena Ernman by 1 night at theater an de Wien!) looking forward to many many great photos and impressions from you!
(ps- Anik, you have a friend in Vienna? do you also have one in Zürich?
)
In Salzburg there is a very peaceful graveyard where Nannerl has her grave among baroque tombstones and roses, plus a gorgeous view around, it is when you come out of the funicular on the way down, the gate is superb. If you feel a bit peckish (restaurants there are rather posh and expensive) try to find Fisch Kreig by the river opposite the entrance of the Old Town and it is a super place where you do not even have to speak just smile and point to the dish then take your plate and if it is fine eat outdoors lovely fish rolls and potato salad and gaze at the river. there I took a boat up the river to Schloss Mirabell, a wonderful watery musical garden … But do not forget to waltz during these days on board!! Will I be able to share your discoveries in April? (be in Shanghai and cannot share sometimes, no youtube and music… )
I will certainly share my experiences – probably not until I get back as spending time on line would be time wasted! Also – thank goodness for maps online and Google Earth so I can prepare and see before I go.
Sausage and a beer in the street at the Bitzinger sausage stands behind the opera house in Vienna. On opera nights it’s full of folks in evening wear standing around eating wurst
Really funny for a Brit where ‘posh folks’ wouldn’t be seen dead at a street stand.
In Budapest – the Ethnography Museum is really great, as is a visit to the Synagogue. Maybe to put right some of those Austrian culinary excesses a trip to the baths – Gellért the famous one and is stunning but I really like the much cheaper and less touristy Lukács. Bit less overwhelming and hence more relaxing!
I am more of a walker than a swimmer/bather but I will certainly go and have a look. As you say, culinary excesses should be addressed in some way or the ‘plane seat will be more than snug.
Many thanks to all of you seasoned travellers for your tempting suggestions
how did i miss that sausage stand?? (unless i was all the time inline for tix
)
Next time?
The Hungarian State Opera House is in a rotting state – can’t blame you much for passing Aida (though the performance I saw last year was actually, and much to my surprise, decent).
Anyway, the city should be nice in April – taking a stroll in the City Park, going out to the Margaret Island, or seeing whatever sights the Buda Castle can offer… And the baths are great.
I’m glad you dropped by, Anonymous, and I will add your suggestions to the growing list of “things I must see and do” I am really looking forward to Budapest having seen the city and market etc on a video.
ps. It was not the *version* of Aida that put me off but the work itself which does not appeal!
Interesting you say that, I brought my mum there for a long weekend in 2009 and we saw a rather odd Fidelio. Budapest is a great place for music (I admit bias since I did a lot of Kodaly based solfege etc in my youth), and the opera house, while not on the standards of Western European houses, is actually not bad. They’ve had horrific budget cuts though. Its very cheap for tickets and the staff are the best I’ve encountered so I would consider a visit.
Hungarian Festival Orchestra, however, was a disappointment, mostly due to the extreme rudeness of the staff in the new concert hall. The music was ok, what we heard of it anyway. Its a nice city. A thermal bath is a must, just for the architecture of the bath houses. Its more like a traditional spa than a swimming pool. Each to his own though.
Enjoy your trip though, I understand what its like, when I was younger I could rarely afford to go anywhere, so it was very special when I could.
Welcome Laura and thank you for stopping by to leave your thoughts. I think my main problem is going to be time as I have to fit everything round the boat schedule and there is SO much to experience!
Actually I am no longer a youngster hampered by lack of cash but at the stage in my life when domestic and personal constraints can by just as galling so, as you say, I must make the most of the opporunity while I can.
Thanks again.
Hi eyes,
Long time no comment, even though I read your blogs.
It’s been an action-packed 2012 year of the dragon, I’m a little glad that it’s now year of the snake. All my teachers bar a few individuals have been given the sack. It’s taken me all summer break to gather myself again. I have one semester to go and I’ll graduate and be done with my school. Just 13 more weeks. have enrolled in Art History and Film In Music just to fill up my credit points and complete my degree requirements.
Wishing you a great snake year of fantastic travels ahead. Wish I were in a position to travel like you.
Hey jcm, really good to see you! You seem to have had such a tough time recently – let’s hope that this new year will be more kind to you. You are certainly making the right moves for this stage in your career and we all hope it goes well for you as you complete your studies.
Do drop by again when you have time, your contributions are always valued